Unofficial Mackie User Forums > DL1608/DL806/DL32R/ProDX Mixers
QSC K-SUB using AUX 6 versus QSC built-in X-overs
Harpman:
I have a pair of QSC K12's and 1 K-SUB that I use for our big band gigs (i.e. Bass/Drums). I've been running it using the QSC X-over which has been working fine. I would occasionally get low rumble from the vocal mics in the K-SUB, so I've decided to run the K-SUB separately through AUX 6. That way I only send what I want to send (i.e. Bass, Kick and Floor Tom). The K-12's have a decent low frequency response for everything else. Also on AUX 6, I turn off the PEQ and only use the GEQ. I've set the EQ pretty much in the range of the published frequency response for the K-SUB (around 43 - 150Hz). I've attached a link to the image of the AUX 6 EQ. Would love to hear comments from others who have a QSC K-Series setup.
Like to screen shot: https://www.dropbox.com/s/rkftthl3ti08yoc/Aux%206%20EQ.PNG
stevegarris:
--- Quote from: Harpman on August 20, 2014, 10:15:44 PM ---I have a pair of QSC K12's and 1 K-SUB that I use for our big band gigs (i.e. Bass/Drums). I've been running it using the QSC X-over which has been working fine. I would occasionally get low rumble from the vocal mics in the K-SUB, so I've decided to run the K-SUB separately through AUX 6. That way I only send what I want to send (i.e. Bass, Kick and Floor Tom). The K-12's have a decent low frequency response for everything else. Also on AUX 6, I turn off the PEQ and only use the GEQ. I've set the EQ pretty much in the range of the published frequency response for the K-SUB (around 43 - 150Hz). I've attached a link to the image of the AUX 6 EQ. Would love to hear comments from others who have a QSC K-Series setup.
Like to screen shot: https://www.dropbox.com/s/rkftthl3ti08yoc/Aux%206%20EQ.PNG
--- End quote ---
My experience has been that it sounds much better to use the board to create a sub mix, even without the output graphic EQ.
One of my best sounding setups has been my PRX615's over a clubs KW118's. To do this, I use the Left output to the subs and the Right output to the tops. I pan everything hard right except the kick and bass guitar. I do need to do a little filtering where they overlap. Seems to be around 180 hz.
Greg C.:
Why are you using the graphic at all? It looks like you're trying to use it as a low pass filter which you don't need. the K-Sub has a built-in 100Hz low pass filter. Also, graphic EQs make very crappy crossovers. If you're ever forced to use one that way, you want all hard cuts past the "crossover frequency." The next question is, what are you doing to high pass the signal to the tops so they're not overlapping the subs too much? The K12s should be set to "EXT SUB" on the back which is a 100Hz high pass filter to match the sub.
Greg C.:
I'll also add that if you need to EQ your sub(s) to say pull out a boomy frequency, the only type of EQ to use is a parametric EQ. The reason being that the bandwidth on a 1/3rd octave graphic is WAY too big. Subs cover less than 2 octaves of the audio range, so only a full parametric EQ with adjustable bandwidth/Q control can give you the precision needed to make the proper tweak. For instance on my subs, I only need a very tight -3dB notch at 50Hz to smooth them out. No way to attempt that on a graphic. To do so would mean killing a large swatch of frequencies in that area.
Harpman:
--- Quote from: Greg C. on August 20, 2014, 11:15:02 PM ---Why are you using the graphic at all? It looks like you're trying to use it as a low pass filter which you don't need. the K-Sub has a built-in 100Hz low pass filter. Also, graphic EQs make very crappy crossovers. If you're ever forced to use one that way, you want all hard cuts past the "crossover frequency." The next question is, what are you doing to high pass the signal to the tops so they're not overlapping the subs too much? The K12s should be set to "EXT SUB" on the back which is a 100Hz high pass filter to match the sub.
--- End quote ---
Greg, I do set the K12's to "EXT SUB" as you mentioned. So what you are saying in the first part of this post is to leave the PEQ/GEQ flat or disabled all together? Sorry, didn't see you second post. So leave the PEQ enabled and GEQ flat and only adjust PEQ if needed, correct? So in your situation, you notch -3db at 50Hz and leave everything else flat?
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